Do you recall Finn’s new work-from-home arrangement that was located in the basement? It seems as though this particular region was lacking a little something, something. It is always nice to have a good place to style, and I was aware that this area might use some additional storage space. I made the decision to construct some modest wooden shelves for this space. It is not only that they would breathe new life into the area, but they would also be an excellent location for Finn to showcase his plants, keep his work materials, and gaze at the framed photographs of his wife that he has of her (I am kidding, but kind of). In the basement, Finn’s office
I made the decision to construct my own straightforward wooden shelves rather than purchasing a shelving unit. That way, I would be able to adjust the color and the length so that it was suitable for the area. Take a look at the space that was there before. Creating straightforward wooden shelves for use in an office setting
Do you see that outlet that is mounted on the wall? Regarding the shelves, my objective was to position one of them in such a way that I could cover the wall outlet by using a plant or a frame behind it. I complained about the fact that the outlets were located halfway up the wall in this blog post that I wrote about Finn’s home office area. On the other hand, a perceptive reader (hello, Debbie!) pointed out that it was most likely associated with the concrete base. Oh, I see! In conclusion, I suppose that these peculiar channels have a function after all. In spite of this, I am completely on board with the idea of doing whatever it takes to make one of the many less of an eyesore!
Build A Shelf Out Of Wood
Item | Specifications | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
Side Boards | Dimensions: 1/2 x 5 x 5 inches | 2 |
Back Board | Dimensions: 1/2 x 4-1/2 x 24 inches | 1 |
Bottom Board | Dimensions: 1/2 x 5 x 24 inches | 1 |
Trim Rail | Dimensions: 1/2 x 3/4 x 25 inches | 1 |
Cut and Prep Wood
- Use a pencil, measuring tape, and straightedge or ruler to mark your measurements on the plywood.
- If available, utilize a table saw with a built-in measuring tape for accurate measurements.
- Cut the plywood according to the specified dimensions using a table saw.
- Measure and cut a 25-inch trim piece.
- Smooth any rough edges with a sanding block.
- Use a tack cloth to remove any dust.
Stain or Paint
- Get creative with the finish: choose to stain, paint, or add a contrasting trim color.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying stain or paint.
- Cover your workspace to avoid mess.
- Use a dry rag to wipe away excess stain.
- Allow the finish to dry completely before proceeding.
Assemble Base and Back
- Apply wood glue to the edges of the back board.
- Adhere the two long pieces (back and bottom) together at a right angle.
- Use clamps to hold them in position while the glue dries.
- For reinforcement, drive nails into the joint with a nail gun.
Attach Sides
- Glue the first 5×5-inch board to one side of the shelf and clamp until dry.
- Repeat the process with the second side.
- Secure each side using a nail gun. If unavailable, consider renting one from a hardware store.
- An alternative is to use a hammer and nails for assembly.
Finish and Hang
- Position the trim piece on the open side of the shelf, approximately 1 1/2 inches from the top.
- Secure the trim using a nail gun.
- Drill pilot holes into the back of the shelf for wall attachment.
- Attach the shelf to the wall using screws, ensuring it is level.
Building a Shelving Unit
First, I needed wood, therefore I chose “utility” Pine for my build. All the boards were 10″ broad and unlaminated, which was excellent and bad.
Laminated wood is more sturdy and warp-free, so I prefer it. The only significant issues are unmatched woods, like dark wood next to light wood, but I can usually work around these.
The half-size shelf unit was created to fit in a specific spot in my work office. The end gables were 40″ tall. I wanted three shelves plus the top, and most importantly, I needed access to the electrical plug under the bottom shelf and storage for large boxes under it, so the only measurement was 15-1/2 inches off the floor.
The two gable ends were squared and cut to length. One board was warped when I discovered it. The board became a propeller after drying in my store for a few weeks after I bought it. Fixing these is nearly impossible.
I’ve always set shelves in bookshelves with dado cuts. This cut is typical for shelving systems. I considered pocket hole joinery but was unsure of its strength given the wood carcass. I considered using “L” brackets, which are easy but awkward. Finally, I chose dowels. I have never used dowels for a bookshelf or shelving unit, so this would be new.
I had to bore dowel holes after cutting all the unit pieces. I had to set the drill bit length and then place each shelf. I laid the gable ends side by side on the workbench with the insides facing up so I could draw straight lines to align the shelves.
I attached a leftover piece of straight wood to the gable ends with self-adhesive tape. It held my doweling jig securely so I could drill all the shelves on both gable ends. I next drilled dowel holes in each shelf using the same specifications. The dry fit was wonderful. The one gable end was still warped, but I thought that if I glued the dowels into each end, let the glue dry hard, then assemble the unit and clamp it together overnight, the little bit of warpage would be forced flat. It was. It looks fine except for a little warpage under the lowest shelf if you look closely.
As noted, I pre-finished all the shelving unit parts, and it’s great to finish them without having to dig into the corners for finish material. I didn’t complete the pre-glued dowels to preserve their gripping force.
I used a water-based dye to color the wood, which raised the grain, but 320 grit sanding (or a sharp scraper) left it smooth. The top coat was three coats of satin water-based varathane with very little 320 grit sanding between applications.
Not a piece of art, it was always supposed to be a practical shelving unit. If I were creating sophisticated furniture, I would have used Oak, Maple, or some exotic wood instead of pine. Next time, maybe I will. I enjoy the look of Barrister Book Cases with glass flip-up doors, especially when made from Oak.