Instead of purchasing a prefabricated shelf unit, I opted to construct my own basic wooden shelves. That way, I could adjust the length and hue to match the room. Take a peek at this region from before. Do you see the wall outlet? One of my goals in arranging the shelves was to find a space where I could hide the wall outlet behind a picture or plant.
While rearranging speakers in my workshop, I made a plain wooden shelf to replace the unsightly metal brackets I had been using. I also moved the speakers to a different wall. This shelf was custom-made to hold my speaker, but feel free to adjust the measurements to suit your needs.


Step Description Measurements and Items
Step 1: Take the measurements


  • Decide on the wall’s location for shelves.

  • Choose L-shaped shelves for corner space.

  • Minimize waste by using standard plywood sheets.




  • Studs: 2″ x 4″ x 8ft (actual size 1.5″ x 3.5″ x 8ft)

  • Plywood: 4ft x 8ft sheets

  • Shelf Sizes: 8ft x 8ft shelves, cut plywood to 2ft x 8ft each


Step 2: Plan the build


  • Design plan for accommodation of large shoe stand.

  • Create a rough sketch for visualization.




  • Design: L-shaped configuration with longer and shorter sides

  • Keep in mind the actual size of 2x4s (1.5″ x 3.5″).


Step 3: Make a cut list


  • Prepare a cut list for wood.

  • Consider asking for assistance at hardware stores.

  • Having a miter saw at home is beneficial.




  • Shelf 1:

    • 8x 2×4 – 8ft (horizontal support)

    • 2x 2×4 – 4ft (horizontal support)

    • 3x 2×4 – 8ft (vertical posts)

    • 18x 2×4 – 21in (depth)

    • 4x 2ft x 8ft (base plywood)

    • 1x 2ft x 4ft (base plywood)



  • Shelf 2:

    • 6x 2×4 – 6ft (horizontal support)

    • 2x 2×4 – 3ft (horizontal support)

    • 3x 2×4 – 8ft (vertical posts)

    • 12x 2×4 – 21in (depth)

    • 2x 2ft x 6ft (base plywood)

    • 2x 2ft x 3ft (base plywood)




Step 4: Mark studs on the wall


  • Use a stud finder to identify wall studs.

  • Draw lines for shelf placement.

  • Calculate shelf height considering baseboard height.




  • Baseboard Height: ~1 foot

  • Total shelf height: 96″ minus baseboard and height of horizontal supports.

  • Ensure proper spacing for vertical posts based on design.


Step 5: Add the DIY back support


  • Attach the first 2×4 to the wall to serve as back support.

  • Use a level to ensure straightness.




  • Fasteners: Use long wood screws into the studs.

  • Maintain level continuity for an even finish.


Step 6: Make the DIY front frame


  • Build a front frame that aligns with back supports.

  • Screw in temporary 2x4s to hold the frame.




  • Screws: Use 2.5″ screws to temporarily hold front frame.

  • Mark posts for securing and alignment.


Step 7: Adding Depth to the shelf


  • Calculating depth with additional 2x4s.

  • Strategically place supports for even weight distribution.




  • Desired Shelf Depth: 24 inches, calculation yields 21 inches for 2x4s.

  • Joinery: Use Kreg joints for back support.


Step 8: Attach the DIY front frame back


  • Reattach the front frame with added depth supports.

  • Secure connections with long wood screws.




  • Method: Ensure tight connections for stability.


Step 9: Add the DIY wood frame on the other side


  • Replicate the process on the left side for symmetry.

  • Use screws where shelves meet in the corner.




  • Screw Placement: Ensure even support across both sides.


Step 10: Add Plywood Sheets to the Top and Bottom of Supports


  • Use 3/4-inch plywood sheets for durability.

  • Secure plywood from above into the 2x4s underneath.




  • Materials: 3/4-inch plywood sheets (pine boards).

  • Testing: Stress-test shelves for balance and support.


Step 11: Add the bench


  • Extend one shelf to create a workbench.

  • Consider convenience of power outlet location.




  • Create a rectangular frame for the bench using 2x4s.

  • Enclose sides with paneling for a smooth finish.


Step 12: Add DIY doors


  • Implement sliding doors for easy access and space efficiency.

  • Complete the organization of the garage area.




  • Design: Ensure smooth sliding mechanism.

  • Outcome: A well-organized and accessible garage post-installation.


I purchased a piece of pine measuring 8 feet by 8 inches, a miter saw and saw stand, a tape measure, a speed square, a palm sander (or you could just use sanding blocks), wood conditioner, stain (I used the color “Provincial”), rags, shelving brackets, drill bits, wall anchors, and a study desk.

How do I make wooden shelves without power tools?

You can combine wood and metal by purchasing wood in dimensions that are as near to the width of the shelf you want to create. 4 inches, 6 inches, 8 inches, 10 inches, and 12 inches are the nominal options. To get a close approximation of the width of the board, you need really deduct around half an inch from each of them. After that, get metal wall runners and metal brackets that are compatible with them, mount them, and then place the wooden shelves on top of them. This is by no means a 100% wood product. But I used black metal and stained walnut wood that was 12 inches in diameter, and it turned out looking very sharp.)
One hundred percent wood: Once more, I utilized wood boards measuring 12 inches in width. For the uprights, I cut one on each end, and I cut as many horizontal shelves as I considered necessary. If you want to keep each shelf in place, you need first mark it precisely and then nail (or screw) it from the outside. Because of this, the end result will be something that resembles a ladder in appearance. This, however, will cause it to sway from side to side. Therefore, you should get a sheet of lauan plywood or another type of thin plywood. Place it in a flat position. On top of it, lay the shelf unit in a flat position. Check to see that it is square. To determine the outline of the shelving unit that will be in contact with the wall, measure (or trace) it. The plywood that will be used as the back of the device should then be cut out using a handsaw. From the moment you nail this to the back, the unit will become quite sturdy, and the swaying motion that occurs from side to side should be completely eliminated. After that, I put a 2×2 frame on the bottom, flush with two sides and back, but with a ‘toe kick’ space in the front that was approximately one inch. This raised it approximately one and a half inches off the floor and made it possible for it to sit more comfortably on irregularities in the floor. At last, I concluded the process by hand sanding and finishing it with oil stain, followed by sanding sealer and varnish. Since that time, I have finished them with a tung-oil finish (not raw tung oil; the finish contains driers and varnishes). I have done this precisely on schedule.
When using a handsaw, you are able to cut those boards. Although it won’t be flawless, if you take care of it, it has the potential to look really fantastic. Somewhere, there is surely a wealth of information regarding how to make use of a handsaw. I discovered that the phrase “Let the saw do the work” is true. With the use of your strength, you can move the saw in a back-and-forth motion and direct its path. If you want to cut the wood, you should let the weight of the saw and the teeth push the saw into the wood. (Well… maybe a little bit of “bear down,” but don’t go all out and try to do it, because unless you have a lot of experience, you’re going to mess up if you do that.)
If you have or create a “miter box,” which is a vertical channel for your saw to ride in, it will be helpful. This will ensure that the saw stays in a straight line and that your cut is more even. For those who do not wish to purchase one, you can find instructions on how to create one online. Both have been accomplished by me.
It is also possible to hang this on the wall, provided that the studs are placed appropriately. Determine which studs are suitable, and then either nail or screw backing plywood into them.
It is possible that you will want to consider using screws rather than nails to secure certain things, particularly the rear of the shelves, depending on the weight of the items that you intend to place on them. Screwing into wood without the use of power tools is possible, but it is difficult. There is not a lot of money involved in purchasing a little drill, and it was the very first power tool that I purchased. Despite the fact that you can get a hand drill, the price of one can be comparable to that of a power drill.
It is possible to acquire all of the components necessary to construct the wooden shelf units at big-box stores.

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