Two components of a staircase that are sometimes confused are the railing and the handrail.

The portion of the staircase that people grasp for support when climbing and descending is known as the handrail or banister. Stability and a constant path along the step must be provided by the railing. There are several materials that can be used to make a railing. It can rest on top of the balusters (vertical posts) on the open side of a staircase, be affixed to a wall, or extend from the side of the stair rail.

The barrier that keeps people from going off the side of the stairs is a railing. If someone pushes or falls on a railing, it must be sturdy enough to withstand shattering. Additionally, railings can be constructed from a range of materials and styles, ranging from contemporary cable railing to a plain balustrade of vertical posts.

In this guide, we will explore how to build a handrail for stairs.

🛠 Handrail (Banister) Basics & ADA Requirements

👷 The part people grasp on stairs is called the handrail or banister. It provides support while climbing and descending.

🧱 What This Is About

Users hold the handrail for stability. It can:

• Sit on top of balusters on an open side
• Be mounted to a wall
• Extend from the stair rail side

📏 Measuring the Sloped Handrail

A line extends along the nosing (front edge of steps) to measure a sloping handrail. This “nosing line” runs from the top landing down to the ground level below the bottom step.

🔍 ADA-Compliant Rules (Business Environments)

🧼 Top Horizontal Extension

“At the top of a stair flight, handrails shall extend horizontally above the landing for 12 inches (305 mm) minimum beginning directly above the first riser nosing.”

That means you need 12 inches of railing above the top step, starting right at the nosing line.

🧼 Bottom Sloped Extension

“At the bottom of the stair flight, handrails shall extend at the slope of the stair flight for a horizontal distance at least equal to one tread depth beyond the last riser nosing.”

So the railing slopes past the bottom step by one tread depth.

🧼 Continuous & Dual Railings

“Handrails are required on both sides of stairs and must be continuous within the full length of each stair flight.”

Each side needs its own handrail, and the rail must run continuously (no interruptions).

⚙ Height Requirements

The gripping surface must be between 34–38 inches vertically above the nosing line:

“Handrail height shall be 34 inches minimum and 38 inches maximum measured vertically above stair nosings.”

🧼 Clearance & Grip Size

• Maintain 1.5-inch minimum clearance from the wall to the handrail.
• The handrail must be shaped so users can grip it—no rotation in its fittings.
• The underside of the rail can be obstructed up to 20%, but tops and sides must stay clear.

🧼 Cross‑Section Size

• Circular rails: diameter must be 1¼″ to 2″.
• Non‑circular rails: perimeter 4″ to 6¼″, max section 2¼″, with rounded edges.

📋 Quick Table: ADA Handrail Overview

Requirement	ADA Standard
Top extension	12″ horizontal beyond top nosing
Bottom extension	Sloped 1 tread depth beyond last nosing
Rail positions	Both sides, continuous
Height above nosing	34″ – 38″
Wall clearance	≥1½″
Gripping surface	Obstructed max 20% on bottom
Grip diameter/perimeter	Circular 1¼″‑2″; non‑circular perimeter 4″‑6¼″

⚠ Common Issues to Avoid

• 🧷 No 12″ extension at top or bottom
• 📏 Uneven railing height—violates 34–38″ rule
• 🚫 Obstructing the tops or sides of the gripping surface
• 📐 Incorrect grip size or shape (non‑code compliant)
• ❌ Broken or interrupted handrail—must stay continuous

👷 Who Needs This

Required in commercial or public buildings under ADA rules. Handy for architects, builders, or inspectors ensuring compliance.

🧰 Builder Tips

Always measure from nosing line—not floor.

• Ensure your top rail returns to a wall, guard, or landing.
• Use grip-friendly profiles that don’t rotate in fittings.

Rundown of the Steps Involved in Building Handrails for Your Stairs

Item	Details
Materials	Spruce lumber 2″ x 6″ wood pieces Polyurethane construction adhesive Stain Clear polyurethane finish Wood filler (if required) 3/4″ thick pine
Tools	Electric planer Table saw Thickness planer Band saw Disk sander Spindle sander Router Drill press Screwdriver Measuring tape Pencil Clamp
Process Steps	Flatten twisted lumber using electric planer Cut wood down to size on table saw Plane pieces smooth on thickness planer Create returns for handrail by gluing shorter pieces Mark and cut curves with band saw Router the edges with round over bit Install eye bolt into wall for anchoring Glue rail to eye bolt with construction adhesive Cut and create biscuit join for handrail Smooth and stain rail with clear polyurethane Attach brackets and mount handrail
Finishing Details	Three coats of clear polyurethane applied Add metal handrail brackets Pencil mark touch-ups for aesthetics
Budget DIY Handrail	DIY approach for cost-effective handrail Use of materials from B&Q (timber and brackets) Minimum cost of around £35 Safety reminder emphasized for children
Height Recommendations	Optimal handrail height: 90-100cm Ensure it’s level at regular intervals
Installation Tips	Bracket installation based on wall type (e.g., stud or drywall) Stability check for brackets after attachment Using grab adhesive for additional securing
Creative Design Ideas	Modern, sleek, minimalist appearance Integration with gallery wall concepts

How to Measure Handrail Length

A line that runs along the nosings of each step is used to measure the length of the handrail’s sloping part. This line extends from the top landing’s nosing to the bottom end’s floor. We refer to this line as the “nosing line.” The whole nosing line must have ADA-compliant stair railings, which are required in business environments. Furthermore, according to these standards, the top of the steps must have a 12-inch horizontal railing that begins just above the upper nosing.

Handrails in residential settings are required to meet some but not all of the ADA’s requirements. In these situations, the railing needs to be continuous, extending at least to the nosing of the lowest step, or “riser,” and beginning at the nosing of the upper landing. Additionally, if at all practicable, the handrail should extend the whole length of the nosing line for maximum safety.

Conclusion

This guide provided a detailed overview of how to build a handrail for stairs, including the necessary tools and materials, key measurements, and design considerations. You also learned how to install and finish a DIY handrail safely and affordably. For more in-depth building guides, stay tuned to Buildersviller.